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Crime in San Jose? Take Care!

December 18th, 2007

I just HATE to write these kinds of posts. I know how blogs like mine can and do affect tourism. On the other hand, if the country continues to not support those branches of government charged with protecting the people… well then so be it. They cannot expect good press about bad situations. Perhaps the loss of tourist dollars will get them off their collective traseros!

I live here and I love this country so to write something bad just makes me very sad. Here again though, I must write about the crime that is causing serious issues in San Jose, the capital. Please note I am not writing about the whole country, just San Jose…  but for now, I must caution my readers to be very cautious if they must drive in San Jose, especially the downtown area.

The bad guys are winning.


To be clear, this post is about the theft of cars and the break-ins to cars left unattended. Especially violent thefts.  Those who travel via taxi, while certainly needing to be constantly alert, are not so affected.

In yesterday’s La Nacion, Costa Rica’s largest newspaper, there is an article about the breaking into and stealing of vehicles in San Jose. From January through November 2007, about 2,200 were stolen. That is one about every seven hours.

If you broaden the area to include the entire province of San Jose, 16 persons daily are victims, and many of those (786 according to the article) are subjected to violence. These figures include breaking windows and other crimes not directcted at the driver. While the actual numbers of these crimes is not increasing, the percentage of violent episodes is way up!

Now to me, this is just crazy. Costa Rica depends on tourism and not a few tourists like to visit the capital. The Teatro Nacional, Gold Museum and many other places are certainly worth a visit. Of course many tourists never visit San Jose, preferring the volcanoes, mountains and beaches, but still, the country just has to do something.

The Director of the Organismo de Investigación Judicial (OIJ), Jorge Rojas, is seen at least weekly on local TV stating this is just getting out of control and begging for money to hire and train more officers. It appears to me that he is being studiously ignored by the government. If Costa Rica does not belly up and deal decisively with this problem, tourism will fall off and the cost then to add officers will be an even more serious problem.

One of the companies that I own deals with tourists and many times I must meet people at the airport. There are about 50 guys who work the airport, carrying luggage, helping visitors. This does not include the myriad of drivers looking to ferry folks to Jaco, Arenal, etc. I know them all. Everyone is complaining about how tourism is seemingly falling off. They blame the recent devaluation of the dollar, which is nonsense! Nobody is going to cancel a trip because of that. But I DO think that Costa Rica is gaining some international repute as a country where there exists violence. This (and really stupid things like requiring kids to have passports) is what I think is the real issue. The new tourist police force may be a step, but the crimes against Costa Ricans are at least as serious as those too make the news.

I sure hope someone high up (Don Oscar?) is listening as this needs to be addressed now.


62 Responses to “Crime in San Jose? Take Care!”

  1. Saratica on December 18, 2007 9:46 pm

    Hear, hear. I am really having to give myself a talking to about being fearful living here. I’m locking my doors all the time now, even with razor wire around my yard… We all have to remember that we are targets all the time now, can’t forget for a minute. It’s unpleasant. Still love it here, but this is eating away at it. I’m hoping I get used to this, get over it. We are seriously considering moving out of gringolandia. We’ll see what tomorrow brings! Thanks for writing this.

  2. Cy Bolinger on December 20, 2007 2:50 pm

    How depressing that article is. We are scheduled to relocate in San Jose (Sabana Norte) in November of ‘08. I wonder if we are allowing enough time for things crime-wise to get better? I have thought for some time that a number of the other blogs in CR, especially one owned by a lady I’m sure you know, have been glossing over details of CR crime. Unlike you, the other blog people omit articles on crime since they are on a number of developer’s payrolls, also selling tours and tourism. Thank you for being who you are and providing a fine service. Please don’t stop!
    All the best for the season.
    Cy Bolinger

  3. crrobs on December 21, 2007 9:41 am

    This is yet another reason why I refuse to buy a car, and find myself standing on the bus.

  4. crrobs on December 21, 2007 9:45 am

    You know…We should get together for dinner sometime.

  5. Jake on December 27, 2007 1:45 am

    I’m a U.S. college student looking to study at the Universidad de San Jose summer 2008. Will this hightened crime affect me? I’m pretty sure I stay in San Jose most of my study abroad time.

  6. brentos on December 28, 2007 5:16 pm

    Its apparent that the international trend that fear sells is on the rise.Im sitting in a cybernet in San Jose right now.Dont walk down the back streets at night.Take a Taxi if your carrying anything of importance.Its the old school mentality of “the Taxis are the bad guys”that will put some moneybelt barring idiot on the wrong street at night.I always look people hard in the eyes and walk with a pace of confidence.If you think walking early early in the morning to a bus terminal to catch the first bus is smart,your wrong,the real cracked out dudes consider this time still part of the night before.Think about it.People do get robbed being “pura-turistas”,watch the Ticos move and move like they do.There are sketchy dudes on the pedestrian walkway that speak american English and have some bullshit story.These guys have friends watching.Dont answer to anybody that calls out to you “hey man,Hey dude,wasup friend,”shit like that is pretty sraight forward.
    Ive been coming for 10 years now and I think the situation is the same like before,Its the fact that theres a hell of alot more 14 night tourists around that are pulling off the same Gringo Bs that they do in Mexico and people are hearing about it.
    Be smart and enjoy Costa Rica.

  7. Keith Smith on December 31, 2007 11:31 pm

    What is the official CR policy on citizens carrying concealed handguns? Is it OK to defend your home by deadly force? I have a concealed handgun permit here in Okie Land and that .40 Cal Autoslammer feels pretty good perched under my armpit when walking in the City after 5:00pm. Have faced down some major dudes that proposed to rearrange my face because I was armed and offered them a one-way ticket to the Promised Land. I’m considering moving to CR but not without my hand cannon.

  8. ...... on January 2, 2008 2:43 pm

    do not carry handguns, please, that’ll make it worse
    you are so right tho, my aunt got robbed twice this year, first while she was on her car, then while she was walking and they were in a car, all because she was carrying a nice purse, she alkmost got killed….i do have to say…. things were better before the colombians arrived with their drugs and gangs, i’m not saying it’s all colombians now ticos are in it too, obviously

  9. Roberto Ramirez on January 5, 2008 1:22 am

    I am Costa Rican.I came to NY in 1970, because my family moved to NY, but I always had the intention of going back, because I love the flora and fauna of this paradise. I was student in University of COsta Rica then.My dream was going back, but I got married in NY whith my Costarrican girlfriend who I knew since I was in Costa Rica. We have two girls who were born in NY and they are not going anywhere. Still my dream was going back. My two daughters are graduadeted from University of Pennsylvania and they are on their own. I have a brother who went to Costa Rica 8 years ago, because like me he wanted to be there and I invested money in property in Costa Rica. What a mistake? My brother is desperately to come back to USA. He has a nice house near the old university. I do not know exactely where, because last time I was there, it was 10 years ago. I does not matter, they broke into his house while he was sleeping and stole a nice radio and cd player and 300 cd’s that he bought in NY. I love to ride a bycicle in Manhattan, I have been doing this for the last 25 years and I never had any problems, my brother says I can not do this in Costa Rica. He told me that they still sneakers if they look expensive. My brother and I had a dream of retiring in Costa Rica, ( the so called the Switzerland of the Americas )which it used to be when I was growing, but not anymore, with so many indisarables imigrants destroyed this beautifull country.I do not care I want a peace of mind and I have it in NY, I go out dancing with my girlfriend and we come back at 5 in the morning and nothing happens. Thanks to Giullani. With all my respect, because I love americans,Costa Rica is for adventuruos americans not for myself a real Costarrican. Good Luck Roberto

  10. JC Murphy on January 9, 2008 7:09 am

    You are 100% right. I have been to CR 8 times since 1993. My last trip was the last one I will ever take there. Not 10 minutes from San Jose Intl and we were attacked by a group of 5 men. Slashed our tires, broke out our windows, right in front of shops and people walking around. I could not fight all 5 of them off, they reached into the car and opened the back door and started grabbing stuff, thank God some other Americans pulled over and helped us chase them away, but they did get some cash and my wife’s purse with a passport. The police were totally useless. This happened in the middle of the afternoon, with locals all around. Once outside of San Jose, as usual, everything is fine except for the fact that you can’t leave you car unattended anymore with anything in it. I went out surfing and left a pair of $5 flip flops on a log. From the surf I saw a guy walk up and take my $5 flip flops. 15 years really makes a difference. The country has gone from being a great safe place to being just like the USA. Because of how we were treated by the government, police and locals in San Jose, my money will no longer be going to CR. I also know a group of my friends, 4 of them, who lost everything during a similar attack. They had just left the rental car place. They turned around and came back home. None of us will go back and we are spreading the word. It is very sad.

  11. sharron barchilon on January 16, 2008 10:38 am

    My granddaughter age 17 will be in Costa Rica town of San Jose this summer. Is it safe for her? Can you give me any advise or websites for futher information.

  12. Tim on January 17, 2008 8:39 am

    I do not mean to be rude…. but did you READ this post to which you are commenting?

    Did you read the comments from others?

  13. Karol on January 17, 2008 2:51 pm

    I think you all are a little paranoiac. I am a costarican and since I was young (25 years ago) my father taught me very simple rules to live and not been a victim in Costa Rica. The first rule was never to leave objects inside the car. Then I learn not to wear expensive things when you go to San Jose, and as a woman I am always alert not to walk in dangerous areas or at certain hours. I attended to the University of CR 6 years, I used to travel to San Jose to work for 2 years and I never been robed, assaulted, kidnapped or something. I am not saying is all fine to live like that (always in alert) but if you are going to spend some time in CR, don’t cancel your trip for the fear of the horror stories you heard. As women we all heard horror stories about labor and we still have kids, right? If you’re dreaming about coming to CR don’t let them scare you. Just be precautious.
    I will write a post soon about that in my site (excuse me for the ad). I love your site btw, it has been a real inspiration to do my own.

  14. Doug Ward on January 19, 2008 2:49 am

    What they need to do is enact the death penalty for selling or posessing crack.
    WORLD WIDE
    I see the Tico blaming immigrants. What a crock…
    Another one blaming someone for leaving something in the car…like tires, stereos, batteries, transmissions..LOL
    Costa Rica has no army…unless you count the HUGE army of ladrones and ladronas.
    I still love it here but I’m in the boonies. I dont even visit the San Jose area and haven’t for nearly 15 years.
    I hope Laura or Oscar reads this blog ?

  15. Rosa on January 28, 2008 9:25 am

    Roberto,

    I am also in NY and have been considering moving there. Obviously you don’t recommend it but I would love to speak with you further to find out more about what your brother’s experience has been in more detail so I can convince myself further about staying in NYC. I love nature and the ocean and that is why I wanted to move there, plus I speak spanish since I am from Mexico but have been living in the US for 17 years and when I have tried moving back to Mexico my experience has been that of unsafety which i hate ’cause like you said I have gotten used to going out in NY anytime and not being scared at all. I hate that feeling of constant stress of being robbed or your car or house in Mexico. So if there is a way to speak/e-mail with you I would really appreciate it Thanks. When you said about not being able to bike is that because they will try to steal your bike or the traffic which I have heard is pretty bad plus the roads being also bad. My email is cajet81@yahoo.com Thanks I really appreciate it!

  16. Chris Brodin on February 3, 2008 3:14 pm

    I have had a business here in Costa Rica since 2000. Lately we have decided to live here permanently because of the deterioration of conditions in the USA.
    Yes there is a growing increase in crime here, but there are things that you can do to remove yourself as a victim. And, by the way, it is not just San Jose where the danger lurks. Jaco and other nearby destinations are an easy bus ride for criminals.
    Here is tip #1:
    As a whole, ticos are a non-interactive group in public. When walking down the street, they will go out of their way to not make physical contact. In truth, I have been on the busiest streets in San Jose and at the most have made only the slightest contact with someone else. If you feel a hard bump from someone else, your pocket has just been picked. These people work in gangs- a bumper and the pick-pocket. And maybe a few blockers to direct you in the right direction.
    Another ruse is the distraction:
    Someone will drop coins (5, 10 colones) on the bus, in the restaurant, or wherever and make a big scene. Meanwhile an accomplice graps your purse or wallet.
    So tip #2:
    Para hombres, carry your wallet in your front pocket with only one credit or debit card with as much money as you are willing to lose. Have the phone number of the credit card company in a different location so that you can call immediately to report it stolen. Carry most of your cash in another pocket. Chicas: No jewelry in public, no big purses. Travel light.
    What is behind all of this crime? Two things: drug traffic and use, and the criminal justice system that allows small offenders to go free. If you rob someone for less than $500, it is a misdemeanor. Expect this situation to change soon since some of the higher ups in the Costa Rican government have been robbed in the streets. I would have robbed them myself if I knew that change would come.
    In the end- tranquilo- Costa Rica is not much different than anywhere else. Do your part to reduce drug use which is the driving force behind crime everywhere. Violent crime here, outside of the drug realm, is small. Columbianos will slash the tires on your rental car and try to steal your possessions. Keep driving and to hell with the tire!

  17. B.J. Swain on February 13, 2008 2:01 pm

    Having taken a tour this past Nov-Dec that left out of San Jose,2 members of the tour were relieved of cameras and handbags while within 1 block of the Aurola Hotel…After the tour I spent a week in La Cruz visiting a friend who is trying to settle there if he can go without being robbed for a few months…The first time,he was careless and lost his passport..that was in the glove compartment of his car, the second time..the bars were taken off his windows(while he was there) and all his valuables were stolen(computer,camera, money)..After hearing these stories from various reliable sources…I was very glad to get back to the U.S.A. with all my gear and passport intact…I am a New Yorker and am used to being cautious but I was really tense alot of the time in Costa Rica..and afraid to venture out on my own…As nice as the people are, as beautiful as the country is..if you don’t feel safe and have to be guard all the time…then I’d rather be in Kansas…

  18. Jaki on February 16, 2008 11:54 am

    My husband and I are booked for our first trip in March… and this is really scary. we rented a car and will only be in San Jose for 4 nights total…but this is scary. Maybe we should cancel and go to Kansas for our honeymoon?

  19. norma Alvarez on February 16, 2008 1:43 pm

    I was robbed near the American embassy. My purse was stolen with passport, lots of money, medicine!

  20. Jaki on February 16, 2008 2:39 pm

    More specifically — we were considering staying a total of 4 nights (3 at the beginning of the trip, one at the end) at the Don Carlos hotel in San Jose. Is that a bad idea? Also planning to rent a car and travel to Arenal, Tamarindo, Monteverde … if we avoid San Jose, does that lessen the chance that we’ll be targeted due to being in an obvious rental car?

  21. cindy on February 17, 2008 3:04 am

    Costa Rica is no place for a 17 year old girl to come for studies…San Jose especially but no where in Costa Rica is a young American girl safe from tico men. The men here are only out to take advantage of American girls and women.

    Under no circumstance would I allow my daughter to come to Costa Rica on her own. You would have to be out of your mind!

  22. Tim on February 18, 2008 8:39 am

    I think maybe we need to be clear here.

    There are a ton of 17 years old boys and girls who come here. Should she be wandering the streets? Well duh! No. It all depends on who is in charge of these young people and who is watching them.

    There are many fine organizations who do take excellent care of young people and do not let them run free. Great supervision. I know several language schools for instance where I see under 18’s all the time. Never an incident!

    On the other hand, it is clear that SOMEONE was NOT supervising Natalee Holloway on her trip to Aruba, certainly a location with far less crime than dowmtown San Jose!

    Kids are at risk ANYWHERE, even their back yards if some adult does not belly up and take responsibility for supervising the child. Parenting 101, something missing from many families these days!

    Frankly, my question as a parent would be how good is the company who is handling her/his trip?? If they are good people and your daughter is not out of control, you have little to fear. I have never heard of an attack on ten teenagers touring San Jose! If she/he is immature, out of control, or if traveling alone to San Jose (or Cleveland Ohio for that matter) then you would have to be as dumb as a bag of prunes to allow that.

    Just use your head!

  23. Tim on February 18, 2008 8:49 am

    to Jaki

    Of course it is not a bad idea. The Don Carlos is a charming little hotel in Barrio Amon and you will enjoy it. Do I recommend late night walks? No. But I am from Chicago and I would not recommend late night walks there either!

    Stay in Kansas? LOL

    I have been to Kansas. It is very nice and homey. KC has some fine BBQ sauce. Still, Costa Rica has one thing Kansas will never have…

    Costa Rica

  24. Roger Arce on February 20, 2008 3:51 pm

    I can not believe how paranoic many of the comments are here. I’m costarican, and I understand that crime has increased in the last years, but it does not mean that this is not a country to come an live, or have some vacations time as you would do in any other country in this world. you need to take your own precautions, of course. My son will soon grow up, I would like to send him to study in the USA, BUT I think I’d better think that twice, Why? school shootings, mall shootings and even planes crahing into buildings. See how paranoice one can be?

  25. Tim on February 21, 2008 12:29 pm

    Yup… I agree. The problem is that stories about crime and violence sell newspapers in this world. Same with CNN (whose blatant hatred of the USA is legend for those of us who live overseas) a “news” organization that just LOVES to broadcast anything bad about the country!

    Sadly, there are precious few options to hear news about the USA. I have often thought though how embarrassing it must be to actually work for CNN.

    Anyway…

    Of COURSE many readers will overreact to all these articles about CR crime. You and I know this, but others will choose to read into these comments what they WANT to see. They want to be scared I think. You and I also notice crime HAS gone UP in recent years. We also know that the jefe at OIJ had the threaten to leave in order to get money to hire more agents.

    CR is generally very safe! To cancel a trip to CR because of a news article is as dumb as thinking that allowing your child to attend university in the USA is a death sentence!

    San Jose and some tourist areas are not so safe and require common sense like don’t walk around late at night by yourself. Well DUH. You would not do that in most large cities anywhere.

    Costa Rica MUST realize just how MUCH the bad press about crime hurts tourism! To ignore this places the country at peril. They ARE reacting, but the stuff I write about is front page fro La Nacion so it is no secret!

    I found your comment interesting!

    “My son will soon grow up, I would like to send him to study in the USA, BUT I think I’d better think that twice, Why? school shootings, mall shootings and even planes crahing into buildings. See how paranoice one can be?”

    My wife (Tica) and a TON of other Ticos I know consider the USA to be far too dangerous for their kids! They will NOT permit them to enter the USA at ALL for exactly the reasons you gave! I cannot convince them that the VAST majority of the USA is very safe. People (like my Tica wife) remember and place in context exactly what they want to remember.

    There is no convincing her that the USA is generally safe! She is CONVINCED that the USA has terrorist bombings every day and every child in school will soon be shoot to death.

    See what I mean? Violence sells! Crime sells! CNN sell both!

  26. Jaki on February 21, 2008 9:30 pm

    – thanks for your comments, Tim. In fact, we live in Chicago and I at least (the husband) walk around late at night all the time, with no problems. We have both traveled a lot and are generally pretty fearless, but your post and some other things we then read online, and talking to some people who live or have traveled in CR, made us think twice. We wound up changing the trip so that we won’t be staying in San Jose itself, but everything else about the trip is the same. If we can just manage not to drive the car into a giant pothole or off a bridge, and avoid dengue fever, I think everything will be OK.

  27. Tim on February 22, 2008 7:19 am

    I do NOT miss Chicago… or more specifically, I do not miss it in WINTER.

    You should have a good trip.

    If driving (which I often suggest) read this page so you can get an idea of what is coming:

    http://www.therealcostarica.com/travel_costa_rica/driving_costa_rica.html

  28. Jennifer on February 22, 2008 12:11 pm

    My family (children ages 5 and 10) are going to go to CR in June. What about the day tours that pickup at the hotels in San Jose? We were going to stay at Doubletree Cariari.

  29. Tony on February 26, 2008 9:39 am

    I have to tell you… reading most of these posts makes me think twice about taking my first trip to CR in April 08. I am contemplating purchasing some property in a Gated Community between Quepos and Manuel Antonio in the South Central Pacific Region. I would highly imagine the Crime Rate does not compare to that region as it does in San Jose. Can anyone comment?

  30. Colin Purrington on February 26, 2008 7:25 pm

    Walked around San Jose last week, and witnessed an intersection blocked off, and then 20-30 police jumped out of a half-dozen vans. Some of police wore black masks (undercover agents?). In general, I was shocked at how many police were on the street. Also shocked at how nervous they looked. For Americans such as myself, the feel is very much that of “New Detroit” in RoboCop. It has the feel of city a few weeks away from completely falling apart. I especially like that every single store, especially the lingerie stores, have 1 or 2 guards posted out front.

  31. Carlos M. on February 27, 2008 4:23 am

    Since this has being ignore let me tell you that the chief of the OIJ is no longer quitting because the gov. has promised him 500 new agents, as well as more judges and prosecutos.
    A security commision has being created throug 2010 to reform the laws that are outdated that allow petty offenders to be free immediately because they did not steal over 500 USD, and they will keep track of repeat of offenders and pusnish them severely instead of just giving them a slap on the wrist. This last point should be taken note of, as im sure the criminal pop. of costa rica is actually quite small considering there is only 4.4 mil. in the whole country and unemployment is below 5%.
    Also this security commison will also reform the immigration laws so you gringos should also be aware of that.
    Next time you blog on a negative issue please follow on the solution the gov is trying to provide. Thank you.

  32. Tim on February 27, 2008 8:11 am

    Nothing was or is being ignored.

    I already blogged about Rojas. I am happy he is back, but as I said, why should anyone have to threaten to resign his job just to get what the country already should be getting and desperately needs?

    I think that the ONLY reason he got his needed agents is because 7 or 8 of those ministers in the asemblea had their OWN homes robbed! Amazing how that gets ones attention.

    Also, hiring and training 500 agents? What? 3-5 years before all are hired, trained and productive?

    As for the “commission”? Sorry, but I have lived here far too long to have much faith in this. 2010? I doubt it. 2012 maybe, then there will be years of haggling in the asemblea, then legal challenges in SALA IV, and then MAYBE the laws will change. This will be YEARS too late for my Costa Rica.

    No…

    In MY opinion, what will change the crime situation is when Costa Rica starts to get such a terrible reputation for violence and crime (like Jamaica!) that tourism falls off and it hits the country in her wallet! This is right around the corner. Read the comments here in this Post! I can still tell people it is OK to come if you are careful, but for how much longer?

    The press in the US is roasting Costa Rica on crime issues as is AM Costa Rica and a ton of bloggers.

    Costa Rica needs to make new laws NOW! They need to hire more police NOW. They need to build more prisons NOW. They need to pay the police more money NOW. They need to enforce the laws they have NOW.

    You mention that the criminal population is small and of course you are right. That is true in any country. Most people are honest good folk. BUT… La Nacion wrote two weeks ago that 600 identified individuals were the cause of nearly ALL crime in San Jose! Everyone knows who they are. The police. OIJ. Newspapers. Everyone on the street. Store owners. Hell, the paper ran pictures of the top 20 bad guys. Some had been arrested over ONE HUNDRED TIMES and they are still on the street. I wonder if they are in the 5% THAT ARE UNEMPLOYED. In fact, I wonder how many are even Costa Rica citizens!

    I notice you are from Florida and possibly Tico. Not sure how long it has been since you have been here… but things have changed.

    So far, tourism is UP this year and that is GOOD for all! But if Costa Rica does not deal decisively with crime very soon, I predict that tourism will be affected negatively. THEN where will the money come from to deal with crime?

  33. KKBCOSTARICA on February 27, 2008 9:15 pm

    Look it’s a poor country …some areas are bad just like in the states. Here it all depends on where you live and how you live. I wear average clothes no gold hanging around my neck and treat my neighbors with the most respect as I am a guest in their country. I live 12 miles from San Jose can walk around at night just like a small country town in Ohio for example. Yes stuff gets ripped off here and everywhere else on earth. At least here you don’t need a whole lot to be happy….More stuff more worries. Anyone agree? Simple life simple country No Paris Hiltons here KKB

  34. Tim on February 27, 2008 11:17 pm

    Well Said!

  35. Sally on March 1, 2008 3:25 pm

    Might be a good time to take stock of your own thinking. They say thoughts are THINGS. If you believe it it will happen. My advice is: Keep you Guardian Angel close. It will guard, guide and protect you. Be sure and thank it. That lets it know you are aware of how valuable it is to have around. I have walked down some pretty dangerous areas and come out smelling like a rose. Allit took was Faith !

  36. Jaki on March 4, 2008 10:05 am

    Well, we are on our way in just a few days.
    Wish us luck avoiding crime, finding our way around and having fun. This will be our first trip to Cosat Rica and I’m nervous and excited. I hope it won’t be the last.

    Jaki (& Jeb)

  37. Bob on March 5, 2008 3:47 am

    Just to offer a little counterpoint, I visited Costa Rica twice last year for two weeks each time, and, I’m afraid to say, I broke almost all of the rules, with no unfortunate consequences. I walked the streets of downtown San Jose late at night until I was advised not to. I frequented the bar districts. I talked to strangers. I stay alert and walk with purpose, but I never sensed any threat. The fact is, for tourists, unless you are on a backpacker’s budget there will be very effective private security almost everywhere you go. At night you can step out of a hotel or restaurant or bar and straight into a taxi. In my experience, the taxi drivers were honest and very street-smart. I doubt that the average criminal would mess with the average taxi driver in San Jose.

    After San Jose I had more rules to break so I rented a 4WD and headed to Jaco. Got flagged down for speeding (80kmph - about 50mph), paid a tip after it was solicited, and went on my way. After that, Quepos, Dominical, Golfito. The biggest dangers I encountered were the potholes and the bridges, in spite of the fact I am a night owl.

    From Golfito I hoped to make Cartago, a longer trip than you would guess from a map. Drove for about four hours in the dark, had to sleep so I pulled over in the middle of the countryside and slept in the car until sunrise. Incidentally, the sunrise is beautiful at Cerro Muerte. After that it was Limon, another “dangerous” city, enroute to which I gave a ride to a couple of young hitchhikers, Puerto Viejo and then back to San Jose. After Quepos, none of the hotels I stayed in had secure parking and I did not take taxis at night.

    It just seems to me that if crime in Costa Rica is really as bad as the earlier posts make it sound, I should be a victim. The fact is, with the rare exception of armed psychopaths, crime is opportunistic and if you don’t create the opportunity you won’t become a victim. I probably should not have slept beside the road, but it was safer than continuing to drive, and in any event, Michael Jordan’s father was shot sleeping at a rest stop in Florida. I have seen money stolen from people in downtown Amsterdam and downtown Seattle. Some time ago I returned from a trip to the Philippines, another “dangerous” country. The closest I came to danger was when I almost got mugged walking from the bus station to my house in Eugene, Oregon. (I could run pretty fast back then.) Of course you should take basic precautions such as keeping your Passport secure and not carrying or showing large amounts of cash, but don’t go on vacation to this beautiful country in fear. It isn’t necessary and it could spoil your vacation.

    One more note: There are lots of police in the tourist areas of Mexico. The people there and the tourists alike are more afraid of the police than of the criminals.

  38. Jason on March 20, 2008 6:03 pm

    We’ve lived in Costa Rica for just over a year now. We’ve lived in San Rafael de Heredia, San Isidro de Heredia and Santa Ana. We’ve never been robbed on the street. Though we never really walk down city streets. When I’ve had to visit San Jose I walk constantly on guard looking for dangerous people…the same as I’d do in bad parts of Southern California. So, sure, maybe the city crime is not much worse than the U.S. The difference here is that nothing is done to stop major, professional crime.
    While we were living in San Isidro de Heredia, a mountainous region that’s not generally considered an expat enclave or target for crime , we had both a break-in by a common thief and then an attack by a band of five men with bulletproof vests, guns and radios to listen to the police. If we had been in California a helicopter would have been sent out and cop cars would be all over the place to catch these guys. In Costa Rica a little Hyundai shows up with a young man and woman who look around, take down the information, tell you to file a report with the OIJ, and then drive away. I’ve spoken to others who have been robbed in a similar fashion as well as to people that have had the motorcycle guys show up and point guns out them to steal their car.
    I used to disregard the pages in the paper talking about all the crime but now I read all the time to stay informed. It turns out most government staff have been victims of this type of professional crime as well. The petty crime has become an high level nuisance now. The crackheads that will steal anything have now stolen so much telephone wiring, to be sold for less than the value of the melted down copper, that the government phone company can no longer provide cell phone service in some areas.
    If it was just the occasional pickpocket to worry about I wouldn’t be so concerned. The unhindered bands of professional criminals and continual destruction of government property are making it a difficult country to live in. The Colombian guy in the paper a few weeks ago that said ‘crime in costa rica is a blast’ after they deported him for the 3rd time and he told the judge he’ll be back in a couple weeks, tells another part of the story.
    The government says it is going to make changes that will make a difference, but one of these is taking away the rights of foreigners to own guns. Not that I would ever want to be in a gunfight, but how does taking guns out of the hands of the victims solve things?
    Its a beautiful country, but the crime is real and very scary.

  39. Andie on March 21, 2008 4:58 pm

    Wow!

    So much bitterness from some people here! I can understand that it feels very unsafe in certain areas after hearing these stories, but generally it’s not THAT bad. I just got back from 9 wonderful days in CR and my partner was there for 6 weeks. We travelled all over the West Coast (including driving in San Jose) and Guanacaste and neither of us had any mishaps. We just took the usual precautions that we’d take ANYWHERE we’d visit, especially in the States. We rented a car and had no problems. We are Canadian. I found the locals very friendly, if you talked to them, and yeah…as a woman it was weird with some of the attention I received but I just walked purposefully to where I was headed. All in all we loved CR very much and want to come back as soon as we can.

    Oh, and I would most definitely NOT feel safer in NY city than Costa Rica!

    Don’t let these stories discourage you, and make sure you get educated about the safety of any area before you travel - in CR or elsewhere. Costa Rica is a beautiful, wonderful place and definitely deserves a chance!!!!

  40. Dave on March 25, 2008 10:08 pm

    The sky is Falling!! Just got back from CR. Spent 5 days in San Jose. Common sense and some streetwise attitude served me well. Walk with purpose. Avoid corners and alleyways etc… At night walk off sidewalk and in part of street, out in open and with intent. I myself am prepared to bust open someone’s head if they threaten me. I guess this sends out the vibe to stay away? Anyway, just be smart. You don’t owe anyone anything, so don’t be a sucker. Avoid conversing with undesirables, and for God’s sake, NEVER answer to anyone who calls you dude or Bro etc . . . Get it? By all means go to CR, San Jose was quite fun. I dug it.

  41. soflodoug on April 3, 2008 4:57 am

    Well all of these stories are believable and probably true. I lived in cr for 9 months,I bought a house,car and was happy for about 3 months,then my house was robbed. I fortunately had homeowners insurance with ins and they paid. The police there fuerza and the oij police,god help us. The oij actually called me 2 weeks after the robbery and asked me if I knew who robbed me,dick tracy look out.
    I spent the first half of my time in cr being robbed and the second half getting my money back from the government. Stay the hell out of costa rica! I was lucky I had a great realestate agent in santa ana who sold my house in 2 weeks! wow what a guy. Also every day the robberie stories were getting to much to hear anymore.
    I am in panama now and i like it here,you can sense the respect the people have for their life and property unlike costa rica the people in my opinion dont respect themselves enough and this is reflected in their society.
    Dont go there from the usa and have a false sense of security,you will be sorry,the poor people and the wealthy live too close to each other,this is a major problem,they watch you move in and snoop at your belongings,its a matter of time. stay in a condominium if you live there and check the security situation. If you feel uncomfortable about any issue with the guards,or the fence or locks or anything trust your gut feeling and leave.
    Words to the wise.
    Good luck

  42. soflodoug on April 3, 2008 5:05 am

    Bob, wow you made me chuckle. Do you want to try that again and let us know what happens?
    soflo

  43. rita on April 8, 2008 8:30 pm

    my sister and i would like to know what would be the safest area to stay in outside sj. we are wanting to do some touristy things then head to quepos. should we take the bus? when we get to quepos are there any recommendations for safe lodging? then we want to head to arenal/la fortuna any lodging recommendations and again should we take a bus or fly? alo i have heard of getting an english speaking guide to cart you around… would that help in the area around san jose? thanks for any help…bama girl

  44. soflodoug on April 11, 2008 8:50 pm

    Stay in one of the marriott courtyards and absolutely rent a gps when you get the rental car. Those things are a lifesaver in cr.

  45. Andie on April 13, 2008 10:02 pm

    Good god…GPS is OK for SOME of Costa Rica, but you’ll find times when the GPS says to turn left (or right, or whatever) and there IS no available turn. Trust me, since we just used a GPS in February from Guanacaste to Quepos (and everywhere in between) and got screwed up a bunch of times. Badly. The GPS is great if you want to watch out the window and not pay attention to a map, however…once the GPS gets lost, you might then not know where you are on your map….frustrating, to say the least. Especially when you are in the middle of nowhere.
    A good map and asking for directions when you are unsure is my best advice.

  46. dyana on April 22, 2008 7:16 pm

    Okay - so I was a bit trepedacious about traveling to CR this coming weekend - but now I’m downright terrified. No stranger to big city life or even traveling to different countries (albeit not many third world countries) I know of the precautions one should take. Still - I’m stressed. We are flying into Liberia and renting a car and driving to Playa Grande. Should I be worried of being assaulted on the way out of the rental facility or on the road to Playa Grande? And once there, would it be stupid of me to walk around with my digital SLR (I’m a semi-pro photographer)? My husband suggested I not take my camera but I can’t imagine being in a country as beautiful as CR and not having my gear to photograph some of the splendor. I speak Spanish fluently and am hoping this will help, but the more I read the more discouraged I become. Am I being totally paranoid? Is some paranoia healthy? Any comments would be appreciated, and Tim, thanks so much for your honesty.

  47. Tim on April 22, 2008 8:27 pm

    Yup… You are totally over reacting :)

    In fact all those people who have read this Post and reacted by canceling (or changing plans) are just being silly.

    When (and if) it becomes so dangerous that I am concerned about my or my wife’s personal safety then everyone will know as I will be writing this BLOG from another country. :)

    Enjoy your trip!

  48. Tim Fitz on April 22, 2008 8:43 pm

    Tim,

    Thank you so very much for this Web Site. I was thinking of a trip to Costa Rico this November.

    However, after reading the above posts I’ll pass.
    If I were traveling alone, I would make the trip. But I would not feel comfortable bringing my wife to an area where I do not speak the language, could not relax and must always be on guard.

    We are seniors and it is just not worth it.

    I guess we will go to Maui again.

  49. Tim on April 23, 2008 7:48 am

    LOL!!!

    I enjoy these type of responses! They are, of course, 100% WRONG, but still I enjoy them!

    The issue is that you are reading a BLOG that tells you EXACTLY how it is. This is what you NEED to know, not what you want to hear.

    Maui huh? Done your research? I think not!

    Maui - Population 139,800 (2005)

    Costa Rica - Population, about 4.5 million with maybe 500,000 in San Jose.

    Crime in Maui?

    Total 7,359
    Murder 5
    Rape 30
    Robbery 71
    Aggravated Assault 165
    Burglary 1,679
    Larceny - theft 4,938
    Motor vehicle thefts 437

    Data provided by the Federal Bureau of Investigation to the National Archive of Criminal Justice Data, University of Michigan

    Do the math. Based on crimes per 100,000 people, Costa Rica is a haven.

    Just because there is nobody writing about the problems does NOT mean they do not exist. It only means they do not wish you to KNOW.

    Enjoy Maui! Sad you missed the best though…

  50. Tim (Silly) Fitz on April 23, 2008 9:38 pm

    Been to Maui several times. Lived in Honolulu during my teenage years.

    The police are “on it” and work at protecting tourists.

    I may very well be “silly” but when I’m in an area where people have bars on the windows and razor wire on the fence I figure there is a reason and do not need to learn first hand what that reason is.

    Again, thank you sincerly for this web site. See you when and if the authorities get a handle on things. Aloooha!

  51. Tim on April 25, 2008 8:36 am

    Thank you for the nice words!

    I too have been to Maui though not as often as you!

    I was advised to not walk the streets after midnight nor to be walking on the beaches after dark. Same here. I was also advised to not carry cash or valuables, laptop, etc. on my person after dark. Same here.

    San Jose does have the worst problems, but the rest of CR does not have nearly as many. Even so, walking San Jose in the daytime to see the museums, the national theatre, going to restaurants, etc is simply not an issue. What IS an issues is when tourists do not use common sense while traveling (same as Maui!) as in ANY large city anywhere! I am from Chicago and the same rules apply.

    My point in replying is that the number of crimes PER 1,000 persons, is WORSE in Maui than in CR. I am glad the police are “on it”, though clearly, the statistics do not reflect that do they? Hard to explain that? Not really. Crime in general is less visible in the USA, but it does exist, often in greater numbers. Because YOU have not been robbed or been the subject of crime in Maui does not really mean anything! I suspect that you are an experienced traveler and do not place yourself or your wife in situations where you will be affected by (or even see!) these crimes.

    The statistics, however, reflect something you deny exists.

    Still… if you feel safer there… by all means go! To me, a REAL vacation is seeing something I do not already know or visiting a place in which I have already lived. To me, it is learning a different culture and visiting new lands. Pretty hard to do in Maui.

  52. Christine in DC on April 28, 2008 9:09 pm

    You people cancelling your trips are overreacting, I’m sure! I’m a woman–travelling alone to CR. Sure, I’m nervous, but no more nervous than I am when I travel alone any other time. I’m more excited than nervous. (I learned to deal with the stares and hissing already, so that’s covered…) The crime you know about is always worse in your head than the crime you don’t hear about. For a time, I read crime reports for my neighborhood religiously. I had to stop because it was freaking me out too much. Still, it’s better to KNOW…think of all the people who go along, la tee da, and don’t take the necessary precautions…leaving your guard down is what leaves you succeptible. I’m not an expert on CR crime (other than what I’ve read here and in guidebooks and elsewhere on the worldwide web), but if you’re afraid of crime, you may not want to come to Washington, DC, or Chicago, or New York, or for that matter a lot of Italian and other European cities (there are many very effective street crime crews there…I witnessed someone’s bag being pilfered, my friend’s passport was stolen, my cousin had her plane tickets stolen…). If you are attacked, give them what they want. Lock up your valuables. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket–I always leave one credit card, some travelers checks (which I usually don’t cash unless I can’t get to an ATM) and anything unnecessary–including my passport–in my hotel safe (if there is one), and keep a little money and maybe a credit card in my shoe/bra strap for a cab home/phone call. I have even done this in my home city (our nation’s capital ain’t that safe either, folks–people in my neighborhood have been shot at in broad daylight…sometimes for no logical reason). Anyway, be safe, but be rational!

  53. Marvin Katz on May 2, 2008 7:38 am

    I was mugged in front of my hote (hotel Eutopa)
    the security for the hotel looked on as 3 thugs
    attaced me. Lucky I was not hurt.
    the next day I was robbed by the cleaning maid
    at the same hotel. - Cell phone - gold chain -
    ect.
    I moved to my regulan hotel (Bal Moral)
    I should not have worn my gold chain at all -
    I have friends that have had simular experices.
    be careful.

  54. frank on May 5, 2008 11:38 pm

    I love costa rica, crime is every place I have life. and I try to learn from it. we do not life in a perfect costa rica but we try to get away from the places that crime is locate.

  55. Ticojim on May 7, 2008 10:45 pm

    Simple test for you if you want to learn some hard truths about living in the land of “puravida”…ask any ex-pat local that lives here there own personal experience with crime or their friends experiences with crime here and you’ll get the real story.

    Really go ahead and try this and you’ll cut through all the crap written on this blog. I’ve gotten to know a lot of expats and locals in the 5 years I’ve lived here, and every single one of them, and I mean every single one has their own crime story, and many of them have several. And no this is not just petty crime, though it started that way, it has now advanced to armed home invasions (in Escazu, Santa Ana, and pretty much every popular beach town), violent attacks, car jackings, and rapes. Take the same survey anywhere in the US or Europe and you might here a couple of personal stories, but I guarantee you it will be vastly less than here. The per capita crime rates here are far higher than US or Europe, even if you look at cities like New York (which is actually one of the safer cities in the US right now). The government of Costa Rica has acnknowledged that this is a major problem numerous times, and it has been all over the newspapers for the past 12 months, (there are literally hundreds of articles about this on ticotimes, el nacion, amcostarica.com, insidecostarica.com) and has just passed a new crime bill to fund more police, judges, jails etc…it will be a while before any of this helps of course, but denying the problem exists, or is “at least as bad as the US” is a fantasy, and a naive view on the way things work in a developing country such as CR. OF course there are numerous reasons for this increase in crime, mainly the influx of foreign wealth to a country that has no functioning penal system and that is the subject of a whole other blog.

    But to read people posting here that it is “no worse here than elsewhere” is naive, dangerous and unhelpful. It’s probably better here than most other Central American countries (except for Panama)…but that’s kind of like being valedictorian of the summer school class This is not meant to be a bash Costa Rica post, but let’s be real folks, if you’re not being honest about the problem, then you are not helping solve the problem.

  56. sushitooth on May 9, 2008 6:01 pm

    I am a male student studying in San Jose this July/August and, oh no, I guess I will be robbed, or worse yet, maybe killed in some back alley! Did you all grow up in a log cabin in the forest or something?

    All criminals are opportunists. Don’t give them the opportunity. When I went to Peru, they were saying the same things about Lima as I’m hearing about San Jose here, but it was non-sense if one is smart. Carry money in the front pocket, avoid completely ghetto areas, watch your surroundings, ignore people trying to talk to you in the street. Although in Lima, I was walking around our hotel and one guy started speaking with me and we actually sat down on a bench, and he ended the story with how he basically needs money, and I pulled out my 2nd wallet and opened it up and gave him the 1 bill that was in there. So there’s another tip: Carry a 2nd wallet. 3 others guys in Lima started a convo with me and another girl on the trip to Peru, and it turns out they were students at a university there and interviewing us for a social project (or maybe that was their story in order to rob us, but they certainly did not and were polite). Lock your baggages with lock and never let them out of your site… Not that difficult!

    Well, maybe I’m only speaking for myself here. As a young guy who doesn’t use or seek out drugs (or alcohol), and not a young lady nor a rich businessman, I feel relatively safe. I know that when I went to Lima, or visited Moscow (where I’m originally from), I wore either a plain grey or white tshirt with some cheap-brand jeans, and 3-year old shoes I used mostly at home (in Pittsburgh) for mowing the grass in. I also took off my white Adidas rubber bracelet (sort of like those Lance Armstrong yellow ones, but white) just to not give any indication of having anything of worth. No watches. Nothing. Dress like you’re about to go in and wash a horse stable in Montana and just forget your jewelry. Flaunting wealth usually makes others angry, and it goes further with criminals looking for money.

  57. Joe Strummer Fan on May 17, 2008 8:38 pm

    I am a 33 year old single man going to CR alone on vacation this year. I have no interest in prostitution or drugs, but apparently I appear like a person who does have an interest in these things. I am often approached by the shady side of life and was often surrounded by shade in Mexico. Does anyone have some advice to quicky get me out of these encounters quicky without confrontation. I guess I am asking are there some simple phrases Tico phrases that will quickly be understood as NOT INTERESTED. Thanks in advance.

  58. RGinKC on May 27, 2008 7:05 pm

    OK, so here is my situation: Married with 2 beautiful blond haired blue eyed kids, girl and a boy (toddler and a 7 month old)…I just had a call from an old job with an enticing offer to relocate to CR.

    Reading this post, I am concerned. We love the idea of pursuing a unique opportunity to spend time in a foreign culture and experience a different country. However, as a husband and father, I want to be responsible and not put my family in harms way.

    I would be living in a condo in Escazu, but working in San Jose. I may have to travel from time to time, leaving my family behind.

    Should I be concerned? Would I be relocating my family to live in ‘a golden cage’ behind razorwire? Some of these stories take me beyond what I expected (petty street crime) when I first had the offer…..I figured Escazu would be relatively safe. Could my wife take the kids shopping without fear?

    Thanks for your input.

  59. Tim on May 28, 2008 2:16 pm

    Do not overreact to what you read.

    Crime is most assuredly on the rise, but just your head. Dress down, NEVER carry a laptop. Use taxis or park very nearby. You wife can shop with the kiddies but she too should keep hers eyes open. I would recommend shopping in the malls and not on the street and NOT in San Jose unless you are all together.

  60. Heather on May 28, 2008 5:51 pm

    Hey Tim and other posters! I love your site and blog and have found it all very helpful. I’m a 21 year old college girl from the D.C. area and I’m going to CR on June 10-July 10. My good friend, Amanda is coming with me for the 1st 10 days and then I’m on my own for the last 20 days. I’m flying into SJ and staying there for the first couple of nights at Hostel Bekuo and will be on a backpackers budget for the most part, just staying it hostels and eating at sodas, but trying to do excursions and see as much of the country as possible. I know a little Spanish, can’t speak it well, but understand some, after failing it twice in school,lol. Hopefully this month will greatly improve it. My plan was to meet other backpackers in the Hostels I stay at with my friend the first 10 days to make new travel buddies for the rest of my trip.

    I have not seen much on here about hostel safety (assuming because you don’t/haven’t stayed in them) or about bus safety(getting mugged or molested because of the close quarters, I was told an awful story by an older woman,67, who lived there and was on the bus to SJ and was groped by the man next to her and nobody did anything) which would be my main mode of transport. I see taxis talked about on here a lot, would it be smarter and affordable to use them instead. I’m also wondering about trusting my stuff with the hostels I’m staying at, like leaving it there(at the front desk or a locker if provided) for day trips or should I just keep all my stuff with me all the time? might be hard on hiking trips though.

    So basically, I’d like to know more about hostels, buses, and traveling alone as a young female. BTW- I won’t be changing my plans as far as going, I’m def. going just want to do it right. I’ve traveled to many foreign places before just never alone. and I’ve already been told to steer clear of Cahuita completely, I was planning on going to Rocking J’s Hostel there because of many good reviews, but I was told the area is too bad for someone alone to go(especially female, which I hate being told all the time). I would love some input from single women living or traveled there! Also, specific names of particularly good hostels and the towns they are in or really bad ones! Thank you all very much!

  61. Sona on June 29, 2008 1:21 pm

    Funny reading all of this. Just went to CR with my husband, daughter and nephew (16 yrs / 17 yrs old). We spent two nights in San Jose, went rafting on the Pacuare and then down to the Carribean coast.

    We weren’t inclined to walk the streets of San Jose at night, but certainly felt safe in our cab and at our hotel (the LOVELY Don Carlos). Actually, the ONLY problem with theft that we had was from the police. We left a bag in a cab when we traveled to the beach. The poor cabbie tried to return it to us but was stopped at a police checkpoint. He tried to make them inventory the contents in front of him, but when they found my husband’s binoculars, they sent the cabbie out of the room. Needless to say, when my husband arrived at the police checkpoint to retrieve the bag, it was minus the binoculars. We know the cabbie didn’t take them because he almost got himself arrested arguing with the police guys insisting that there were binoculars in the bag (which of course they denied).

    The bars and razor wires everywhere are certainly not welcoming, but we followed common sense rules, dressed on the shabby side (a welcome change, really), and learned to avoid the police!

    The country is too beautiful to miss. Pura vida!

  62. Santos Marquis on July 3, 2008 3:31 pm

    Costa Rica is Honduras or basically any other central american country without the army.

    It’s nice if you’re a tourist, but if you want to live there, you’ll feel you’ve gone back to the stone age. I lived their for 3 years (Alajuela & SJ).

    If you want a latin american country with a robust economy, a robust infrastructure, a modern banking system, great communications system (internet, cell, TV/cable) low crime, beautiful landscape, and educated people, try Chile.

    True, you won’t have the beautiful rainforest, but you’ll have deserts, modern highways with modern day mapped out GPS, majestic mountains, fjords, and a justice system that isn’t perfect but works better than any other in latin america.

    Honestly, the only reasons I hear from people on why they love to go down to CR is for the casinos, internet gambling setup, and prostitution places that have very young girls in their establishments.

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